Bee Wilson - Swindled: The Dark History of Food Fraud, from poisoned candy to counterfeit coffee
The title of this book makes it sounds like it some type of novelty caper, an unmasking of food jiggery-pokery. Happily,Swindled is much better and more serious than that. Bee Wilson is perhaps more historian than food writer, or that's what came through in the text. She writes in a nicely nuanced style that draws you into her subject. Wilson has obviously thought deeply about the nature of food adulteration and what it means for the culture and public health. This comes through in her splendid writing.
Swindled tracks the history of food adulteration and those who exposed these food frauds, starting in the nineteenth century. Essentially, food frauds flourished (if I can use that expression) the longer the chain between food producer and eater became. The less we have to do with our food growing, processing and cooking, the more we are prone to food swindles. The rise of industrialisation has also meant a rise in dubious foods. (Interestingly, industrialising China is plagued with food scandals.)
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